The latest offering under the Marcus Wareing Restaurants banner takes a ‘casual yet informed’ approach in the form of Treadwell’s: a mid-price, West end eatery in its Seven Dials location. Wareing himself will not be present in the kitchen however, this venture being a step away from his role as chef in two Michelin star Marcus restaurant and towards a restaurateur brand that provides accessible eating.
Having walked through the reeded-glass entrance- and past the Victorian tile clad host station- I am directed to the bar on the ground floor of this three-floor restaurant, where my friend awaits. A large clock hangs above: I am later informed a nod to Agatha Christie’s The Seven Dial’s Mystery. Instantly the space feels familiar, warm and worn in. The dark bar has brass hanging rails for glasses and friendly staff making cocktails are lit with industrial light fittings resting on the counter top. A real classic British essence is captured with racing- green cracked leather upholstery for the 20 covers here, and brickwork on the walls that looks very authentic.
Our table is on the first floor, the large clock now at eye level. The space is lined with angled mirrors with an antique effect (great for subtle sneak peeks at what people have ordered/how your hair is looking etc etc…) Between each mirror, a dark frame encloses the brick walls. The upstairs space houses 46 covers, a mixture of banquettes and booths with some central seating. Along with dark stained 1940s furniture, timber flooring and the British green- painted walls, it successfully becomes a very comfortable space for my friend and I to have a long over due catch up over interesting and tasty food.
We selected a few starters to share, the food arriving in jam jars and pots and all sorts of quirky vessels imaginable. For mains, my sea bass with puréed carrot, lentil and crispy shallots was extremely tasty and all served in a way to encourage sharing. Warm ginger cake with running caramel and cream to finish, along with a coffee and we’re left feeling thoroughly fed, relaxed and checking the menu to see what we’ll order next time.