Kricket Restaurant Review

London, 25-04-2018

After a successful nine months (and counting) as a pop-up in a shipping container at Pop Brixton, Kricket have just opened as a fully fledged restaurant in Denman Street Soho.

Only taking reservations for parties of more than 4 for their downstairs area, we instead popped our name on the waiting list on this bustling Friday evening, and went for a drink nearby. We were called within the hour, returning to be seated at a booth on the ground floor.

The restaurant is split across two floors. At street level, the full kitchen is present and on display, running into the bar. 17 high stools line the counter, with soft pink leather upholstery, and aged brass metalwork. Kricket’s brand letter ‘K' is embossed in the metalwork of the chair backs- a nice detail in an otherwise simple ground floor interior. The remaining covers here are two rattan-backed booths, seating 8 people in total, an initial nod to Indian colonial detailing. 

The walls have been stripped back to the original brick with areas plastered and gold leaf applied in small areas and we notice carved Indian timber panels are present to the waiter station.

Exposed ducting fills the ceiling and wire basket lights with raw bulbs hang over the long counter. This, along with the booth tables, has a warm white pyrolave top, with grey exposed edging that the material allows.

The staff are welcoming, warm and helpful in aiding with the menu of modern Indian small plates. The menu is split into breads, veg, fish & meat: four options for each. We make a very good attempt at trying most of the menu!

The bhel puri with raw mango and yogurt is our introduction to the vast flavours that will be brought out as the evening progresses.

The glazed ceramic dishes quickly fill the table. Samphire pakoras, Karnataka mussels, Keralan fried chicken and Delica pumpkin are among my personal favourites. The food is delicious, fresh and light, no greasiness found here.

We ordered both desserts on the menu, a cardamom kheer with fresh rhubarb and the misti doi, a creme brûlée like dish with fresh pomegranate and pistachio crumbled on top.

Waiting for them to arrive, we popped downstairs to see the rest of the restaurant’s design.

The interior on the lower level is a lot darker and cosier. A sizeable 42 covers are arranged on mostly long sharing tables and a second small bar with stools is at the bottom of the stairs. Burnt wood cladding lines the walls, along with feature ceramic scale tiles and a metal grid plant wall to the rear, quite an eclectic panel.

To finish, the dark moody toilets have beautiful Indian styled ironmongery and patterned tiles.

It’s been a great evening, sound tracked with a funk playlist. Deserts devoured and coffee to finish, we leave Kricket in a food coma, very much looking forward to our next visit.